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article .research-hypotheses h3{font-size:1.17rem!important}#research-r09-release.iict-journal article .research-hypotheses p{font-size:1rem!important}}\n\n\/* IICT VISUALES FINAL 20261106 *\/\n#research-r09-release.iict-journal article .iict-journal-table thead{display:table-header-group!important;position:static!important;inset:auto!important;width:auto!important;height:auto!important;overflow:visible!important;clip:auto!important;clip-path:none!important;visibility:visible!important;opacity:1!important}\n#research-r09-release.iict-journal article .iict-journal-table table caption{position:sticky!important;left:0!important;width:min(42rem,calc(100vw - 5rem))!important;max-width:100%!important;white-space:normal!important;overflow-wrap:break-word!important;hyphens:auto!important}\n@media(max-width:700px){#research-r09-release.iict-journal article .iict-journal-table tbody th{width:clamp(8rem,42vw,14rem)!important;max-width:14rem!important;white-space:normal!important}}\n\/* \/IICT VISUALES FINAL *\/\n<\/style>\n<nav class=\"research-languages\" aria-label=\"Language\"><a href=\"#r09-es\">Espa\u00f1ol<\/a><a href=\"#r09-en\">English \u00b7 full article<\/a><a href=\"#r09-fr\">Fran\u00e7ais \u00b7 article int\u00e9gral<\/a><\/nav><!-- IICT-CITE-CSS --><style>.iict-citation{display:block!important;max-width:780px!important;margin:2.8rem auto!important;padding:1.6rem 1.7rem!important;border-block:1px solid #b6a06b!important;border-left:2px solid #a58a47!important;background:#edf0e7!important;color:#344c53!important;grid-column:1\/-1!important}.iict-citation h2{display:block!important;margin:0 0 1.1rem!important;font:400 1.65rem\/1.25 Georgia,serif!important;color:#264b61!important;text-align:left!important;letter-spacing:0!important}.iict-citation p,.iict-citation blockquote{display:block!important;margin:0 0 1rem!important;padding:0!important;border:0!important;background:none!important;text-align:left!important;text-indent:0!important;letter-spacing:normal!important;hyphens:none!important}.iict-citation p{font:400 .93rem\/1.7 var(--sans,system-ui,sans-serif)!important}.iict-citation blockquote{font:400 1.08rem\/1.8 Georgia,serif!important;overflow-wrap:anywhere!important}.iict-citation a{display:inline!important;overflow-wrap:anywhere!important;color:#264b61!important}.iict-citation .iict-citation-label{font:400 .72rem\/1.6 var(--sans,system-ui,sans-serif)!important;letter-spacing:.08em!important;text-transform:uppercase!important;color:#596b58!important}.iict-citation-policy li{margin-block:.7rem!important;font:400 1rem\/1.75 Georgia,serif!important}.iict-citation-policy ol{padding-left:1.3rem!important}.iict-citation-policy .iict-citation-format{font:400 1.02rem\/1.8 Georgia,serif!important}.iict-citation a:focus-visible{outline:2px solid #a58a47;outline-offset:4px}@media(max-width:650px){.iict-citation{padding:1.3rem 1.1rem!important;margin:2rem auto!important}.iict-citation h2{font-size:1.5rem!important}.iict-citation blockquote{font-size:1rem!important}}<\/style><!-- \/IICT-CITE-CSS --><article id=\"r09-es\" lang=\"es\"><p class=\"eyebrow\">Investigaciones del Totonacapan \u00b7 Paisaje y saberes<\/p><h1>Cocinas del Totonacapan: territorios, ingredientes y saberes<\/h1><p class=\"research-deck\">De la parcela a la mesa y al mercado cambia mucho m\u00e1s que un alimento. Los estudios de campo, las cocinas rituales y dos recetarios escolares biling\u00fces permiten seguir esas transformaciones.<\/p><div class=\"research-abstract\"><h2>En pocas palabras<\/h2><p>Las cocinas del Totonacapan no caben en una receta \u00fanica. Cambian con la localidad, el hogar, la temporada y la ocasi\u00f3n. Milpa, cafetal, huerto, r\u00edo, costa y mercado intervienen de maneras diferentes en lo que llega a la mesa.<\/p><p>Este recorrido re\u00fane un estudio de 146 parcelas, una investigaci\u00f3n sobre la milpa de la Sierra de Papantla y preparaciones con lugar y autor\u00eda documentados. Distingue las cocinas tutunak\u00fa, nahuas, tepehuas y regionales mestizas sin convertir los ingredientes compartidos en una identidad \u00fanica.<\/p><\/div><figure class=\"research-visual\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"960\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/iict-r09-dulces-cuetzalan-stephanielopezs-2013.jpg\" alt=\"Carro de venta de dulces en Cuetzalan, con distintos productos dispuestos en bandejas.\" loading=\"eager\"><figcaption><strong>La comida tambi\u00e9n circula por la calle<\/strong>Dulces en Cuetzalan, Puebla \u00b7 14 de noviembre de 2013. Escena de venta situada; la fotograf\u00eda no identifica por s\u00ed sola recetas, ingredientes ni pertenencia cultural.<br>StephanieLopezS \u00b7 <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Dulces_T%C3%ADpicos_del_pueblo_de_Cuetzalan,Puebla.jpg\">Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/\">CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><section id=\"r09-es-b0\"><h2>El territorio tambi\u00e9n se conoce comiendo<\/h2><p>Una tortilla cotidiana, un tamal de ofrenda y un guiso vendido en el mercado cuentan relaciones distintas. Para conocerlas no basta una lista de platos: hace falta preguntar qui\u00e9n siembra o consigue los ingredientes, qui\u00e9n transforma, para qui\u00e9n se cocina y en qu\u00e9 ocasi\u00f3n. El mismo alimento puede circular por la casa, la fiesta y la venta sin perder su historia local. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>El Totonacapan es un espacio de contacto entre pueblos y trayectorias. INPI sit\u00faa comunidades tepehuas en varios municipios de Hidalgo, Puebla y Veracruz, y reconoce la presencia nahua en la Sierra Norte de Puebla. Compartir ma\u00edz, frijol o chile no vuelve intercambiables sus cocinas. Tampoco una preparaci\u00f3n localizada en un municipio permite atribuir a todas sus personas una sola lengua o identidad. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s5\">[5]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s8\">[8]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-b1\"><figure class=\"iict-entre-epocas\" style=\"display:block;float:none;width:100%;max-width:1100px;margin:2rem auto\"><img src=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/iict-cocina-antes-ahora.jpg\" alt=\"Cocinas y transmisi\u00f3n de saberes: el presente en color enlaza con una recreaci\u00f3n del pasado en sepia.\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display:block;width:100%;height:auto;max-height:none;object-fit:contain\"><figcaption style=\"display:block;font:12px\/1.6 var(--sans, sans-serif);text-align:left;margin-top:.65rem;color:#56625b\">Cocinas y transmisi\u00f3n de saberes: el presente en color enlaza con una recreaci\u00f3n del pasado en sepia.<\/figcaption><\/figure><h2>Las plantas del paisaje y las de la dieta<\/h2><p>Espinoza-P\u00e9rez y sus colegas estudiaron 146 parcelas de 69 familias en nueve localidades de siete municipios del Totonacapan poblano. El trabajo de 2022 incluy\u00f3 63 milpas, 47 cafetales, 27 huertos familiares, siete parcelas hort\u00edcolas y dos acahuales. Lo compararon con 270 encuestas de alimentaci\u00f3n realizadas en 2020. Se trata del trabajo de campo de esos autores, no de entrevistas realizadas por el Instituto. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s1\">[1]<\/a><\/p><p>La selecci\u00f3n de familias respondi\u00f3 a perfiles alimentarios de una investigaci\u00f3n previa. Incluye localidades de Atlequizayan, Zapotitl\u00e1n de M\u00e9ndez, Olintla, Jonotla, Camocuautla, Amixtl\u00e1n y Huehuetla, Puebla. No es una muestra de todos los hogares del Totonacapan ni una proporci\u00f3n regional de tipos de cultivo. Su fuerza est\u00e1 en relacionar parcelas, conocimientos y consumo dentro de un conjunto de casos bien delimitado.<\/p><\/section><section class=\"c-chart\" id=\"r09-es-plots\"><h3>146 parcelas, cinco ambientes de trabajo<\/h3><p>Composici\u00f3n del inventario de 2022 \u00b7 69 familias seleccionadas \u00b7 nueve localidades.<\/p><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Milpas<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:90.000%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">63<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Cafetales<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:67.143%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">47<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Huertos familiares<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:38.571%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">27<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Parcelas hort\u00edcolas<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:10.000%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">7<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Acahuales<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:2.857%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">2<\/span><\/div><p class=\"c-datanote\">Unidad: n\u00famero de parcelas; escala com\u00fan de 0 a 70. Total: 63 + 47 + 27 + 7 + 2 = 146. No son hect\u00e1reas ni proporciones de todo el Totonacapan. Elaboraci\u00f3n a partir de m\u00e9todos de Espinoza-P\u00e9rez et al., 2024 [1], CC BY.<\/p><\/section><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Tres fechas para no mezclar observaciones\" style=\"--journal-table-min:32rem\"><table><caption>Tres fechas para no mezclar observaciones<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Momento<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Trabajo documentado<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Lo que se compara<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">2020<\/th><td data-label=\"Trabajo documentado\">270 encuestas de alimentaci\u00f3n, nueve meses [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"Lo que se compara\">Consumo registrado en casa.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">2022<\/th><td data-label=\"Trabajo documentado\">Inventario de 146 parcelas y entrevistas a 69 familias [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"Lo que se compara\">Plantas presentes y manejo; no observaci\u00f3n simult\u00e1nea de la dieta de 2020.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">2024<\/th><td data-label=\"Trabajo documentado\">Publicaci\u00f3n del an\u00e1lisis en Frontiers [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"Lo que se compara\">Cruce de registros con sus limitaciones temporales y de selecci\u00f3n.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><section id=\"r09-es-b2\"><h2>Tener una planta no equivale a comerla siempre<\/h2><p>El estudio encuentra una distancia entre lo que se puede comer y lo que qued\u00f3 registrado como consumido. Los resultados y la tabla 3 del art\u00edculo de 2024 informan 102 especies comestibles; 48 aparecen a la vez en las parcelas inventariadas y en las encuestas de alimentaci\u00f3n. Adem\u00e1s, algunas especies est\u00e1n en m\u00e1s de un ambiente: cafetales, huertos y milpas no albergan floras completamente separadas. Sumar sus cantidades de especies contar\u00eda algunas m\u00e1s de una vez. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s1\">[1]<\/a><\/p><p>La diferencia tampoco demuestra que las otras especies hayan desaparecido de la cocina. Las encuestas cubrieron nueve meses, registraron comida consumida en casa y anteceden en dos a\u00f1os al inventario. Una fruta comida en el campo o una especie de temporada puede quedar fuera. Adem\u00e1s, el propio art\u00edculo alterna 102 y 101 como total; hacemos visible esa discrepancia en Fuentes y contraste, en lugar de corregirla sin evidencia.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-b3\"><style id=\"iict-visual-essays-20261106\">\n#main figure.iict-viz{box-sizing:border-box;width:100%;max-width:100%;margin:2.3rem auto!important;padding:clamp(20px,3vw,34px)!important;border:1px solid #cfc3a9!important;border-top:3px solid #a68b46!important;border-radius:2px!important;background:linear-gradient(135deg,#fffcf4,#f5efdf)!important;color:#254761!important;box-shadow:0 18px 30px -32px #17314480;overflow:visible!important;float:none!important;clear:both;isolation:isolate;break-inside:avoid;}\n#main figure.iict-viz *,#main figure.iict-viz *::before,#main figure.iict-viz *::after{box-sizing:border-box}#main figure.iict-viz>header{display:block!important;width:100%!important;margin:0 0 1.35rem!important;padding:0!important;border:0!important;background:none!important}#main 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solid #d4c8af;box-shadow:3px 3px 0 #e8dfc9}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-fold .viz-cell{border-top:0;background:linear-gradient(120deg,#fffcf4,#f0eadb)}#main figure.iict-viz:is(.viz-water,.viz-duet) .viz-art{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:26px}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-water .viz-cell{border-top:1px solid #b8c7c6;padding-top:1rem!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-water svg{height:80px!important;color:#486e7a}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-duet .viz-cell{padding:1rem!important;background:#e9eeec77;border-top:2px solid #a68b46}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla svg{height:125px!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla .viz-cell{padding-top:.5rem!important;border-top:1px solid #d7c8a3}\n@media(max-width:620px){#main figure.iict-viz{padding:18px!important;margin:1.8rem auto!important}#main figure.iict-viz .viz-art,#main figure.iict-viz:is(.viz-network,.viz-coordinates,.viz-cycle,.viz-water,.viz-duet) .viz-art{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:17px}#main figure.iict-viz .viz-cell{padding-bottom:1rem!important;border-bottom:1px solid #d9ceb7}#main figure.iict-viz .viz-cell:last-child{border-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0!important}#main figure.iict-viz .viz-cell p{font-size:15px!important}#main figure.iict-viz svg{height:75px!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla svg{height:115px!important}#main figure.iict-viz .viz-kicker{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.08em}#main figure.iict-viz:is(.viz-network,.viz-coordinates,.viz-cycle) .viz-art{border:0;gap:0}#main figure.iict-viz:is(.viz-network,.viz-coordinates,.viz-cycle) .viz-cell{border:1px solid #cfc3a9;margin-bottom:12px!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-flow .viz-cell:not(:last-child)::after{content:'\u2193';top:auto;bottom:-15px;right:50%;font-size:20px}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-timeline .viz-art{border-top:0;border-left:1px solid #ad9453;padding:0 0 0 20px;gap:24px}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-timeline .viz-cell::before{top:8px;left:-25px}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-layers .viz-cell{padding:.9rem .6rem!important;grid-template-columns:27px 1fr;column-gap:8px}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-layers .viz-art{gap:0}#main figure.iict-viz:is(.viz-water,.viz-duet) .viz-cell{padding:1rem!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-triptych .viz-cell{display:grid;grid-template-columns:65px 1fr;column-gap:14px}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-triptych .viz-cell svg{grid-row:1\/4;height:65px!important;margin:0!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-triptych .viz-number{display:none}}\n@media print{#main figure.iict-viz{box-shadow:none!important;background:#fff!important}#main figure.iict-viz .viz-cell{break-inside:avoid}}\n@media(max-width:620px){#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla .viz-cell{display:grid;grid-template-columns:72px minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:14px;align-content:start}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla .viz-cell svg{grid-row:1\/4;width:72px!important;height:100px!important;margin:0!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla .viz-number{display:none}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla h4{font-size:16px!important}#main figure.iict-viz.viz-vanilla .viz-cell p{font-size:15px!important}}<\/style>\n<figure class=\"iict-viz viz-triptych\" id=\"iict-viz-r09-es\" lang=\"es\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-viz-r09-es-title\"><header><div class=\"viz-kicker\"><span>Cuadernos visuales<\/span><span>R09 \u00b7 01<\/span><\/div><h3 id=\"iict-viz-r09-es-title\">Tres escenarios de un mismo alimento<\/h3><p>La preparaci\u00f3n cambia de sentido con las personas, el destino y la ocasi\u00f3n.<\/p><\/header><div class=\"viz-art\" style=\"--viz-cols:3\"><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><path d=\"M80 55l60-40 60 40M92 49v49h96V49M125 98V67h30v31M102 56h15v15h-15M164 56h15v15h-15\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">01<\/span><h4>La casa<\/h4><p>Comer, cuidar y aprender en las relaciones cotidianas.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><path d=\"M71 48h138q-6 45-69 45T71 48zM62 46h156M108 25q-10-10 2-19M140 25q-10-10 2-19M172 25q-10-10 2-19M115 99h50\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">02<\/span><h4>La celebraci\u00f3n<\/h4><p>Preparar para compartir, recordar u ofrecer en un contexto situado.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><ellipse cx=\"128\" cy=\"34\" rx=\"41\" ry=\"15\"\/><path d=\"M87 34v18q41 30 82 0V34M87 50v18q41 30 82 0M110 76v13q41 25 82-2V65M169 50q25 2 23 15-9 18-48 13\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">03<\/span><h4>El mercado<\/h4><p>Vender y hacer circular trabajo, ingredientes y conocimientos.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figcaption>Preguntas de lectura del art\u00edculo; los ingredientes compartidos no hacen id\u00e9nticas las cocinas.<span class=\"viz-source\">S\u00edntesis visual original del Instituto \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-es-sources\">Fuentes y contraste<\/a><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure class=\"iict-plate\" id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-es\" lang=\"es\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-a-es-title\" style=\"--plate-cols:3\"><div class=\"plate-top\"><p class=\"plate-kicker\">Cuaderno ilustrado \u00b7 I<\/p><h3 id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-es-title\">El grano tambi\u00e9n se transforma con conocimiento<\/h3><\/div><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"plate-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 750 420\" role=\"img\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-a-es-art-title iict-plate-r09-a-es-art-desc\"><title id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-es-art-title\">El grano tambi\u00e9n se transforma con conocimiento<\/title><desc id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-es-art-desc\">1. El ma\u00edz aporta el material con el que se trabaja. 2. Cocci\u00f3n, reposo y molienda requieren decisiones aprendidas. 3. La masa abre preparaciones y ocasiones diferentes. 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\/><\/g><line x1=\"212\" y1=\"224\" x2=\"277\" y2=\"224\" stroke=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-dasharray=\"5 7\"\/><circle cx=\"277\" cy=\"224\" r=\"4\" fill=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g transform=\"translate(375 242) scale(1)\"><path d=\"M-72 -56 Q0 -30 72 -56 L61 34 Q0 66 -61 34Z\" fill=\"#d2c2a4\" stroke=\"#978163\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-72 -56 Q0 -90 72 -56\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#978163\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-16 -89 C-40 -117 9 -126 -8 -155 M17 -85 C-2 -118 40 -127 24 -153\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#b29a68\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><\/g><line x1=\"459\" y1=\"224\" x2=\"520\" y2=\"224\" stroke=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-dasharray=\"5 7\"\/><circle cx=\"520\" cy=\"224\" r=\"4\" fill=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><path d=\"M551 283 Q601 227 660 283 Q612 319 551 283Z\" fill=\"#d1bc8f\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M555 276 Q607 219 663 276\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M540 280 Q603 342 680 280\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><circle cx=\"138\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"138\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">1<\/text><circle cx=\"375\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"375\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">2<\/text><circle cx=\"609\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"609\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">3<\/text><\/svg><ol class=\"plate-legend\"><li>El ma\u00edz aporta el material con el que se trabaja.<\/li><li>Cocci\u00f3n, reposo y molienda requieren decisiones aprendidas.<\/li><li>La masa abre preparaciones y ocasiones diferentes.<\/li><\/ol><figcaption class=\"plate-caption\">Secuencia culinaria ilustrada, sin receta ni dosificaci\u00f3n; vinculada a la explicaci\u00f3n de nixtamalizaci\u00f3n del texto. \u00b7 Ilustraci\u00f3n original del Instituto \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-es-sources\">Fuentes y contraste<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>El ma\u00edz cambia de forma y de ocasi\u00f3n<\/h2><p>Para entender lo que llega al plato hay que volver a la milpa. Erika Mar\u00eda M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez estudia la milpa totonaca de la Sierra de Papantla como un policultivo: ma\u00edz que comparte la parcela con frijoles, calabazas, chiles y otras plantas, seg\u00fan las variaciones locales. Al examinar la alimentaci\u00f3n distingue algo que una lista de ingredientes no muestra. El ma\u00edz maduro se nixtamaliza para tortillas y ciertas masas; el tierno se utiliza en bollitos de elote. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>Tambi\u00e9n registra tamales de diversas envolturas y preparaciones. Los pintos pueden incorporar frijol y presentar variantes con haba o ch\u00edcharo; las p\u00falaclas relacionan masa y productos de la milpa. La variedad de texturas y usos importa tanto como el nombre. No reproducimos esas observaciones como una receta universal ni como instrucciones para identificar plantas silvestres: son descripciones situadas de un saber culinario.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-method\"><h3>Del paisaje a la comida: relaciones que investigar<\/h3><ol class=\"r-flow\"><li><strong>Obtener<\/strong>Cultivar, recolectar o comprar. Milpa, cafetal, huerto y mercado no ofrecen lo mismo ni al mismo tiempo.<\/li><li><strong>Transformar<\/strong>Nixtamalizar, moler, envolver o cocinar. La t\u00e9cnica modifica textura, trabajo y usos.<\/li><li><strong>Compartir y circular<\/strong>Casa, venta y ceremonia: importa para qui\u00e9n se prepara y qui\u00e9n asume cada responsabilidad.<\/li><\/ol><p class=\"c-datanote\">Esquema de lectura elaborado a partir de [1\u20134]. No representa una cadena \u00fanica, un reparto universal del trabajo ni un calendario regional.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-b4\"><section class=\"iict-reading-addition\" data-kind=\"inline\" id=\"iict-reading-r09-es\" lang=\"es\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-reading-r09-es-title\"><h3 id=\"iict-reading-r09-es-title\">La cal tambi\u00e9n forma parte del conocimiento culinario<\/h3><p>Entre el grano seco y una masa hay una transformaci\u00f3n que puede pasar inadvertida. La nixtamalizaci\u00f3n emplea agua y cal de grado alimenticio; el medio alcalino modifica la cubierta del grano y facilita su procesamiento. La Secretar\u00eda de Agricultura la explica en una cocina identificada: la de Angelina Espinoza Fuentes, productora de San Miguel Topilejo, en Ciudad de M\u00e9xico, en un registro divulgado en 2025. <a class=\"reading-ref\" href=\"#iict-reading-r09-es-source\" aria-label=\"Ver fuentes y contraste\">\u2197<\/a><\/p><p>Ese ejemplo externo al Totonacapan permite comprender una operaci\u00f3n que la investigaci\u00f3n de Papantla sit\u00faa en sus propios alimentos. Reconocer el punto de cocci\u00f3n, reposo y molienda forma parte del criterio de quien cocina. Un ingrediente compartido se convierte en comidas diferentes mediante decisiones aprendidas.<\/p><p class=\"reading-links\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gob.mx\/agricultura\/es\/articulos\/del-maiz-a-la-tortilla-y-el-proceso-de-nixtamalizacion\">Secretar\u00eda de Agricultura \u00b7 Del ma\u00edz a la tortilla, 13\/06\/2025<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-es-sources\">Fuentes y contraste<\/a><\/p><\/section>\n<h2>Coxquihui: entre la mesa, el ritual y el mercado<\/h2><p>En las p\u00e1ginas dedicadas a Coxquihui, M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez vincula las p\u00falaclas con peticiones de lluvia, Semana Santa y D\u00eda de Muertos. Su documentaci\u00f3n incluye una fotograf\u00eda fechada el 28 de marzo de 2018 de molenderas prepar\u00e1ndolas. La fecha y el contexto permiten entender una pr\u00e1ctica concreta; no convierten cada venta de tamales o cada cocina dom\u00e9stica en un acto ritual. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>La autora describe tambi\u00e9n venta cotidiana y preparaciones de atoles. Las molenderas aparecen como mujeres con conocimientos especializados, junto a responsabilidades de mayordomos y fiscales en determinadas ocasiones. Aqu\u00ed la transmisi\u00f3n no es solo conservar una f\u00f3rmula: implica saber ajustar masas, organizar trabajo, reconocer tiempos y atender compromisos. La circulaci\u00f3n comercial y la ceremonial se relacionan, sin ser exactamente la misma cosa.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-b5\"><h2>Dos pascales de Mecapalapa, dos voces publicadas<\/h2><p>Dos libros biling\u00fces de la SEP permiten acercarse a preparaciones con contribuci\u00f3n y escuela identificadas. En Los animales que a m\u00ed me gustan, Librada S\u00e1nchez Zamora aporta \u201cPollo en pascal\u201d, de la escuela Emiliano Zapata de Mecapalapa, Pantepec, Puebla. El texto menciona pollo ahumado, ajonjol\u00ed, pipi\u00e1n y chiles secos molidos en metate. Su valor documental incluye el lugar y la voz que lo aporta, adem\u00e1s de los ingredientes. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s3\">[3]<\/a><\/p><p>En El conejo que vend\u00eda ma\u00edz, Mar\u00eda Ang\u00e9lica Albino Dom\u00ednguez, de la misma escuela y localidad, aporta \u201cPascal de hongo\u201d, con hongos, chile de Mora, masa y pipi\u00e1n. Ambos libros se presentan como publicaciones en lengua tutunak\u00fa: no los reclasificamos como tepehuas por su ubicaci\u00f3n geogr\u00e1fica. La segunda receta emplea \u201csardina\u201d como medida local; no es un ingrediente de pescado ni una cantidad que podamos convertir a gramos sin calibraci\u00f3n. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s4\">[4]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-b6\"><figure class=\"iict-plate\" id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-es\" lang=\"es\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-b-es-title\" style=\"--plate-cols:3\"><div class=\"plate-top\"><p class=\"plate-kicker\">Cuaderno ilustrado \u00b7 II<\/p><h3 id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-es-title\">La mesa se relaciona con varios paisajes<\/h3><\/div><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"plate-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 750 420\" role=\"img\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-b-es-art-title iict-plate-r09-b-es-art-desc\"><title id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-es-art-title\">La mesa se relaciona con varios paisajes<\/title><desc id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-es-art-desc\">1. Milpa y cafetal forman parte de los espacios cultivados estudiados. 2. Huertos y otras parcelas ampl\u00edan las plantas disponibles. 3. Disponibilidad, preparaci\u00f3n y consumo son preguntas distintas. 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-122 C30 -88 35 -40 0 0Z\" fill=\"#8d9b72\" stroke=\"#52694d\" stroke-width=\"1.5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 0 Q-4 -60 0 -113\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#52694d\" stroke-width=\"1.3\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -16 Q-10 -24 -18 -35\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -16 Q10 -24 18 -35\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -31 Q-12 -39 -19 -47\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -31 Q12 -39 19 -47\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -46 Q-14 -54 -20 -59\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path 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stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -61 Q16 -69 21 -71\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -76 Q-18 -84 -22 -83\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -76 Q18 -84 22 -83\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -91 Q-20 -99 -23 -95\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M0 -91 Q20 -99 23 -95\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#617853\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><\/g><path d=\"M0 -112 L39 -130\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#7c8b66\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><circle cx=\"-7\" cy=\"-5\" r=\"8\" fill=\"#a65f4d\" stroke=\"#7e5141\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><circle cx=\"9\" cy=\"-32\" r=\"8\" fill=\"#a65f4d\" stroke=\"#7e5141\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><circle cx=\"-7\" cy=\"-59\" r=\"8\" fill=\"#a65f4d\" stroke=\"#7e5141\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><circle cx=\"9\" cy=\"-86\" r=\"8\" fill=\"#a65f4d\" stroke=\"#7e5141\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><circle cx=\"-7\" cy=\"-113\" r=\"8\" fill=\"#a65f4d\" stroke=\"#7e5141\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><circle cx=\"9\" cy=\"-140\" r=\"8\" fill=\"#a65f4d\" stroke=\"#7e5141\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><\/g><g transform=\"translate(425 222) scale(0.72)\"><path d=\"M-66 -12 L0 -68 L66 -12 L48 -12 L48 55 L-48 55 L-48 -12Z\" fill=\"#e6deca\" stroke=\"#6f7560\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><rect x=\"-12\" y=\"9\" width=\"24\" height=\"46\" rx=\"0\" fill=\"#a5ae91\" stroke=\"#6f7560\" stroke-width=\"2\"\/><rect x=\"-38\" y=\"-4\" width=\"17\" height=\"22\" rx=\"0\" fill=\"#d2d9cb\" stroke=\"#6f7560\" stroke-width=\"2\"\/><rect x=\"23\" y=\"-4\" width=\"17\" height=\"22\" rx=\"0\" fill=\"#d2d9cb\" stroke=\"#6f7560\" stroke-width=\"2\"\/><\/g><g transform=\"translate(591 268) scale(0.63)\"><path d=\"M-12 0 Q-6 -85 -2 -162 L10 -162 Q7 -75 19 0Z\" fill=\"#c9b394\" stroke=\"#6e6a4a\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M1 -105 L-42 -150 M5 -132 L39 -175\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#6e6a4a\" stroke-width=\"5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-65 -133 C-115 -143 -98 -206 -47 -208 C-34 -261 37 -267 61 -222 C118 -229 133 -155 82 -135 C45 -104 -27 -109 -65 -133Z\" fill=\"#b4bca0\" stroke=\"#7c8b66\" stroke-width=\"1.5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-78 -170 Q-30 -216 8 -188 M8 -217 Q48 -233 77 -195 M-30 -144 Q20 -174 63 -153\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#7c8b66\" stroke-width=\"1.3\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><\/g><path d=\"M90 338 Q372 281 674 338 L655 357 Q378 320 110 357Z\" fill=\"#d8c19a\" stroke=\"#a48c61\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><circle cx=\"169\" cy=\"95\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"169\" y=\"103\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">1<\/text><circle cx=\"467\" cy=\"119\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"467\" y=\"127\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">2<\/text><circle cx=\"378\" cy=\"365\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"378\" y=\"373\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">3<\/text><\/svg><ol class=\"plate-legend\"><li>Milpa y cafetal forman parte de los espacios cultivados estudiados.<\/li><li>Huertos y otras parcelas ampl\u00edan las plantas disponibles.<\/li><li>Disponibilidad, preparaci\u00f3n y consumo son preguntas distintas.<\/li><\/ol><figcaption class=\"plate-caption\">Relaci\u00f3n conceptual inspirada en las 146 parcelas estudiadas; no representa porcentajes de la dieta ni de la regi\u00f3n. \u00b7 Ilustraci\u00f3n original del Instituto \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-es-sources\">Fuentes y contraste<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>La costa y la sierra ampl\u00edan la conversaci\u00f3n<\/h2><p>La mesa cambia de un lugar a otro. El inventario municipal de Tecolutla recogido por INEGI nombra el guatape de camar\u00f3n. El de Cuetzalan menciona, entre otros alimentos, tamales de frijol y de mole. Estas fichas sit\u00faan referencias culinarias m\u00e1s all\u00e1 de Papantla, aunque no identifican a una cocinera ni describen todas las variantes. Una menci\u00f3n tur\u00edstica o municipal tiene un alcance distinto del de una investigaci\u00f3n etnogr\u00e1fica, dedicada a estudiar pr\u00e1cticas y relaciones, o del de una contribuci\u00f3n firmada. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s6\">[6]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s7\">[7]<\/a><\/p><p>La etnograf\u00eda de INPI sobre los tepehuas incluye ma\u00edz, chile, frijol, calabaza, chayote, ajonjol\u00ed, frutas, quelites y hongos en la alimentaci\u00f3n y la producci\u00f3n dom\u00e9stica. Es una referencia a otro \u00e1mbito cultural, no una autorizaci\u00f3n para adjudicarle cualquier preparaci\u00f3n con esos ingredientes. En las localidades nahuas y en las cocinas regionales mestizas tambi\u00e9n deben conservarse procedencias y nombres propios: el intercambio no borra las diferencias. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s5\">[5]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-es-s8\">[8]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-preparations\"><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Preparaciones situadas \u00b7 lugar, fuente y variantes\" style=\"--journal-table-min:40rem\"><table><caption>Preparaciones situadas \u00b7 lugar, fuente y variantes<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Preparaci\u00f3n<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Lugar documentado<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Fuente y atribuci\u00f3n<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Qu\u00e9 permite afirmar<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">P\u00falaclas y pintos<\/th><td data-label=\"Lugar documentado\">Coxquihui, Veracruz<\/td><td data-label=\"Fuente y atribuci\u00f3n\">M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez [2], pp. 74\u201378. Registro etnogr\u00e1fico; no autor\u00eda exclusiva de una receta.<\/td><td data-label=\"Qu\u00e9 permite afirmar\">Productos de milpa; pintos con variantes de legumbres. Venta y ocasiones rituales documentadas; no todo uso es ceremonial.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Pollo en pascal<\/th><td data-label=\"Lugar documentado\">Mecapalapa, Pantepec, Puebla<\/td><td data-label=\"Fuente y atribuci\u00f3n\">Librada S\u00e1nchez Zamora \u00b7 escuela Emiliano Zapata \u00b7 SEP [3], p. 22.<\/td><td data-label=\"Qu\u00e9 permite afirmar\">Pollo ahumado, ajonjol\u00ed, pipi\u00e1n y chiles secos. Publicaci\u00f3n en lengua tutunak\u00fa; no se transcribe la receta.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Pascal de hongo<\/th><td data-label=\"Lugar documentado\">Mecapalapa, Pantepec, Puebla<\/td><td data-label=\"Fuente y atribuci\u00f3n\">Mar\u00eda Ang\u00e9lica Albino Dom\u00ednguez \u00b7 misma escuela \u00b7 SEP [4], p. 22.<\/td><td data-label=\"Qu\u00e9 permite afirmar\">Hongos, masa, pipi\u00e1n y chile de Mora. \u201cSardina\u201d es medida local; no se presume peso equivalente.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Guatape de camar\u00f3n<\/th><td data-label=\"Lugar documentado\">Tecolutla, Veracruz<\/td><td data-label=\"Fuente y atribuci\u00f3n\">Inventario INEGI\/INAFED [6], p. 4; cocinera o cocinero individual no identificado.<\/td><td data-label=\"Qu\u00e9 permite afirmar\">Referencia costera localizada. La ficha no documenta variantes ni una receta completa.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Tamales de frijol y de mole<\/th><td data-label=\"Lugar documentado\">Cuetzalan del Progreso, Puebla<\/td><td data-label=\"Fuente y atribuci\u00f3n\">Inventario INEGI\/INAFED [7], p. 4; autor\u00eda individual no identificada.<\/td><td data-label=\"Qu\u00e9 permite afirmar\">Referencia municipal serrana; no demuestra origen exclusivo ni identidad de todas las personas que los preparan.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><\/section><section id=\"r09-es-b7\"><h2>Transmitir es tambi\u00e9n escribir, vender y decidir<\/h2><p>Cada documento guarda una parte del recorrido. Un recetario escolar hace visible una contribuci\u00f3n y su vocabulario. Una etnograf\u00eda de la cocina de fiesta explica ocasiones y responsabilidades. Un estudio de parcelas relaciona la diversidad cultivada con la alimentaci\u00f3n registrada. Le\u00eddos juntos muestran una cultura viva, sostenida por decisiones, conocimientos y trabajo. Su valor no exige que todas las pr\u00e1cticas permanezcan id\u00e9nticas.<\/p><p>La siguiente investigaci\u00f3n necesita escuchar a quienes cocinan y comercializan en cada lugar, con autorizaci\u00f3n y reconocimiento de sus aportaciones. Tambi\u00e9n necesita registrar variantes, cambios de medida, acceso a ingredientes y reparto del trabajo. Aqu\u00ed no sustituimos esas voces con entrevistas imaginadas: reunimos las que ya est\u00e1n publicadas y se\u00f1alamos qu\u00e9 evidencia aporta cada una. As\u00ed una cocina puede conocerse con rigor sin reducirla a un cat\u00e1logo de platos.<\/p><\/section><details class=\"research-evidence\" id=\"r09-es-sources\"><summary><span class=\"evidence-kicker\">Investigaci\u00f3n abierta<\/span><strong>Fuentes y contraste<\/strong><span class=\"evidence-subtitle\">Abrir el m\u00e9todo, las diferencias entre fuentes y las referencias verificables.<\/span><\/summary><div class=\"evidence-content\"><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Qu\u00e9 afirmamos, con qu\u00e9 evidencia y hasta d\u00f3nde llega.\" style=\"--journal-table-min:32rem\"><table><caption>Qu\u00e9 afirmamos, con qu\u00e9 evidencia y hasta d\u00f3nde llega.<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Pregunta<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Fuentes y observaciones<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfA qui\u00e9n representa el estudio de parcelas?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">Frontiers [1], m\u00e9todos y tabla 1: 69 familias seleccionadas por perfiles alimentarios, nueve localidades y siete municipios; 146 parcelas en 2022.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">Es un estudio de casos relacionados, no una encuesta probabil\u00edstica de todo el Totonacapan. Los porcentajes de parcelas de la gr\u00e1fica describen la muestra, no la superficie regional ni la dieta de todos los pueblos.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 102 especies y no 101?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">Resumen, resultados y tabla 3 de [1] informan 102. La discusi\u00f3n y conclusi\u00f3n utilizan tambi\u00e9n 101; el desglose de manejo presenta otra diferencia de una especie.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">Seguimos el total expl\u00edcito de resultados\/tabla 3 y mantenemos visible la discordancia. Sin datos corregidos o aclaraci\u00f3n de los autores no elegimos una especie para eliminar ni reconstruimos el inventario.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfNo aparecer en la encuesta equivale a dejar de comer?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">El inventario de 2022 coincide en 48 especies con encuestas de 2020. Los autores [1] se\u00f1alan nueve meses de registro, comida en casa y posible consumo de fruta en el campo.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">La diferencia entre disponibilidad y consumo registrado no prueba desaparici\u00f3n cultural. Tiempo, lugar de consumo y estacionalidad pueden intervenir; se necesitar\u00eda seguimiento comparable para explicar cambios.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfM\u00e1s especies en un ambiente significa sumar diversidad?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">[1], tabla 3: cafetales 71, huertos 66, milpas 57, horticultura 13 y acahuales 8; varias especies aparecen en m\u00e1s de un ambiente.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">Son riquezas con solapamiento. No se suman para obtener un total regional ni se convierten autom\u00e1ticamente en calidad nutricional, frecuencia de consumo o beneficios cl\u00ednicos.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfUna preparaci\u00f3n tiene un solo contexto?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez [2], pp. 74\u201378, relaciona p\u00falaclas y atoles con ocasiones rituales, conocimientos especializados y venta cotidiana en Coxquihui.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">La ocasi\u00f3n modifica relaciones y responsabilidades sin exigir otro ingrediente para cada uso. La documentaci\u00f3n de 2018 no es una entrevista nuestra ni un calendario vigente para todas las comunidades.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfDos pascales son dos recetas incompatibles?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">SEP [3\u20134], p. 22 de cada libro: pollo ahumado frente a hongos, con contribuciones distintas de Mecapalapa. Ambas publicaciones se identifican en lengua tutunak\u00fa.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">Son variantes documentadas, no una disputa por una receta \u00fanica. Se conservan nombres de las contribuyentes y la escuela. La medida \u201csardina\u201d no se convierte en pescado ni en gramos supuestos.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfLa localidad permite deducir identidad?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">INPI [5,8] muestra territorios pluriculturales. Los libros SEP [3\u20134] precisan su lengua editorial; INEGI [6\u20137] recoge alimentos por municipio.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">Geograf\u00eda, lengua de publicaci\u00f3n e identidad personal no son equivalentes. No atribuimos todos los pascales a los tepehuas, todos los tamales a un pueblo ni toda la cocina regional a Papantla.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">\u00bfTodas las fuentes explican lo mismo?<\/th><td data-label=\"Fuentes y observaciones\">Estudio de parcelas [1], etnograf\u00eda [2], contribuciones escolares [3\u20134] e inventarios municipales [6\u20137] observan unidades y fechas diferentes.<\/td><td data-label=\"Contraste e interpretaci\u00f3n\">Se complementan, pero una ficha de gastronom\u00eda no equivale a un testimonio de cocina. Para ampliar recetas, trabajo y comercio faltan entrevistas autorizadas y observaci\u00f3n local; no las suplimos con voces inventadas.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><h3>Referencias y alcance de lectura<\/h3><ol class=\"research-sources\"><li id=\"r09-es-s1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.frontiersin.org\/journals\/sustainable-food-systems\/articles\/10.3389\/fsufs.2024.1329532\/full\">Espinoza-P\u00e9rez, Cortina-Villar, Perales, M\u00e9ndez-Flores y Soto-Pinto \u00b7 Edible plants as a complement to the diet of peasant farmers \u00b7 2024 \u00b7 DOI 10.3389\/fsufs.2024.1329532<\/a><br>Art\u00edculo original completo y sus cinco tablas. M\u00e9todos: encuestas de 2020 e inventario de 2022; 69 familias, nueve localidades, siete municipios, 146 parcelas. Resultados, discusi\u00f3n y limitaciones le\u00eddos. Datos derivados con atribuci\u00f3n, CC BY.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/librosdigitales.colsan.edu.mx\/ebook\/Sembrandomilpas_2025.pdf\">Erika Mar\u00eda M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez \u00b7 Milpa totonaca: sabores, saberes y rituales agr\u00edcolas en la Sierra de Papantla, Veracruz \u00b7 en Sembrando milpas, coord. Enriqueta Quiroz \u00b7 2025<\/a><br>P\u00e1ginas impresas 53\u201356 y 74\u201378 \u2014PDF 55\u201358 y 76\u201380\u2014, adem\u00e1s de la presentaci\u00f3n del cap\u00edtulo. Milpa, t\u00e9cnicas y pr\u00e1cticas de Coxquihui; fotograf\u00eda documentada de 2018. No se afirma lectura \u00edntegra del libro ni se reproduce esa fotograf\u00eda.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s3\"><a href=\"https:\/\/dgeiib.basica.sep.gob.mx\/files\/fondo-editorial\/biblioteca-escolar\/semilla-palabras\/be_semillas_00109.pdf\">SEP \u00b7 Los animales que a m\u00ed me gustan \u00b7 Lengua tutunak\u00fa, Puebla \u00b7 2010, reimpresi\u00f3n 2013<\/a><br>Cubierta, cr\u00e9ditos y p\u00e1gina impresa 22 \u2014PDF 23\u2014. \u201cPollo en pascal\u201d, contribuci\u00f3n de Librada S\u00e1nchez Zamora; escuela Emiliano Zapata, Mecapalapa, Pantepec. Se parafrasean sus datos, sin copiar la receta completa.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s4\"><a href=\"https:\/\/dgeiib.basica.sep.gob.mx\/files\/fondo-editorial\/biblioteca-escolar\/semilla-palabras\/be_semillas_00034.pdf\">SEP \u00b7 El conejo que vend\u00eda ma\u00edz \u00b7 Lengua tutunak\u00fa, Puebla \u00b7 2010, reimpresi\u00f3n 2013<\/a><br>Cubierta, cr\u00e9ditos y p\u00e1gina impresa 22 \u2014PDF 23\u2014. \u201cPascal de hongo\u201d, contribuci\u00f3n de Mar\u00eda Ang\u00e9lica Albino Dom\u00ednguez; misma escuela y localidad. Se conserva el sentido de la medida local \u201csardina\u201d.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s5\"><a href=\"https:\/\/atlas.inpi.gob.mx\/tepehuas-etnografia\/\">INPI \u00b7 Atlas de los pueblos ind\u00edgenas de M\u00e9xico \u00b7 Tepehuas: etnograf\u00eda<\/a><br>Apartados de localizaci\u00f3n, actividades productivas y gastronom\u00eda consultados en el texto primario indexado. Acceso directo intermitente. No identifica por s\u00ed solo la autor\u00eda de los dos pascales de los libros SEP.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s6\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.inegi.org.mx\/contenidos\/app\/mexicocifras\/datos_geograficos\/30\/30158.pdf\">INEGI \u00b7 Tecolutla \u00b7 Compendio geogr\u00e1fico municipal 2010<\/a><br>P\u00e1gina 4 del PDF, patrimonio\/gastronom\u00eda: guatape de camar\u00f3n. Inventario municipal con referencia a INAFED; no receta completa ni autor\u00eda individual de cocina.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s7\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.inegi.org.mx\/contenidos\/app\/mexicocifras\/datos_geograficos\/21\/21043.pdf\">INEGI \u00b7 Cuetzalan del Progreso \u00b7 Compendio geogr\u00e1fico municipal 2010<\/a><br>P\u00e1gina 4 del PDF: inventario gastron\u00f3mico, incluidos tamales de frijol y mole. Referencia municipal, no atribuci\u00f3n \u00e9tnica exclusiva ni descripci\u00f3n de todas las variantes.<\/li><li id=\"r09-es-s8\"><a href=\"https:\/\/atlas.inpi.gob.mx\/nahuas-de-puebla-etnografia\/\">INPI \u00b7 Atlas de los pueblos ind\u00edgenas de M\u00e9xico \u00b7 Nahuas de Puebla: etnograf\u00eda<\/a><br>Texto primario indexado consultado para localizaci\u00f3n y contexto pluricultural de la Sierra Norte. No se usa para atribuir una receta particular a toda la poblaci\u00f3n nahua.<\/li><\/ol><\/div><section class=\"iict-reading-source\" id=\"iict-reading-r09-es-source\" lang=\"es\"><h4>La cal tambi\u00e9n forma parte del conocimiento culinario<\/h4><p>Topilejo aporta una explicaci\u00f3n t\u00e9cnica y una voz identificada. No sustituye las observaciones culinarias de Papantla ni establece una receta regional \u00fanica.<\/p><p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gob.mx\/agricultura\/es\/articulos\/del-maiz-a-la-tortilla-y-el-proceso-de-nixtamalizacion\">Secretar\u00eda de Agricultura \u00b7 Del ma\u00edz a la tortilla, 13\/06\/2025<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"#iict-reading-r09-es\">Volver al pasaje<\/a><\/p><\/section>\n<\/details><nav class=\"research-related\"><a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1225#research-hub-es\">Volver a Investigaciones del Totonacapan \u2192<\/a><\/nav><p class=\"research-version\">Edici\u00f3n documental \u00b7 ES \/ EN \/ FR \u00b7 05.11.2026 \u00b7 v1.0<\/p><!-- IICT-CITE R09 es --><aside class=\"iict-citation\" id=\"citar-r09-es\" aria-labelledby=\"citar-r09-es-title\"><h2 id=\"citar-r09-es-title\">C\u00f3mo citar este art\u00edculo<\/h2><p class=\"iict-citation-label\">Referencia bibliogr\u00e1fica sugerida<\/p><blockquote class=\"iict-citation-reference\">Instituto Internacional de Cultura del Totonacapan. \u00abCocinas del Totonacapan: territorios, ingredientes y saberes\u00bb. <cite>Cuadernos de investigaci\u00f3n<\/cite>, <strong>R09<\/strong>. The Integral Management Society (IMSV). <a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1304#r09-es\">https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1304#r09-es<\/a>.<\/blockquote><p><strong>Referencia interna:<\/strong> <a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1304#r09-es\">R09<\/a>. Para citar un pasaje concreto, a\u00f1ade el t\u00edtulo de su secci\u00f3n.<\/p><p><a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1225#normas-citacion-es\">Criterios de citaci\u00f3n del Instituto \u2192<\/a><\/p><\/aside><!-- \/IICT-CITE R09 es --><\/article><details class=\"research-lang-version\" id=\"r09-en-version\"><summary>Read the full English article<\/summary><article id=\"r09-en\" lang=\"en\"><p class=\"eyebrow\">Totonacapan Research \u00b7 Landscape and knowledge<\/p><h1>Kitchens of Totonacapan: territories, ingredients and knowledge<\/h1><p class=\"research-deck\">From fields to table and market: what field studies, ritual kitchens and two bilingual school recipe books allow us to understand.<\/p><div class=\"research-abstract\"><h2>At a glance<\/h2><p>Totonacapan\u2019s kitchens cannot be reduced to one recipe. They change with locality, household, season and occasion. Milpas, coffee plots, homegardens, rivers, coast and markets contribute differently to what reaches the table.<\/p><p>This account brings together a study of 146 plots, research on milpa agriculture in the Sierra de Papantla, and preparations with documented places and contributors. It distinguishes Tutunak\u00fa, Nahua, Tepehua and regional mestizo kitchens without turning shared ingredients into a single identity.<\/p><\/div><figure class=\"research-visual\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"960\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/iict-r09-dulces-cuetzalan-stephanielopezs-2013.jpg\" alt=\"Street sweets cart in Cuetzalan with assorted products on trays.\" loading=\"eager\"><figcaption><strong>Food also circulates through the street<\/strong>Sweets in Cuetzalan, Puebla \u00b7 14 November 2013. A situated sales scene; the photograph alone does not identify recipes, ingredients or cultural belonging.<br>StephanieLopezS \u00b7 <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Dulces_T%C3%ADpicos_del_pueblo_de_Cuetzalan,Puebla.jpg\">Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/\">CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><section id=\"r09-en-b0\"><h2>Food is also a way of knowing a territory<\/h2><p>An everyday tortilla, a tamal offered in a ceremony and a stew sold at market tell different stories of relationships. Understanding them takes more than a list of dishes: who grows or obtains ingredients, who transforms them, who is being fed and on what occasion? The same food can circulate through home, celebration and commerce while retaining its local history. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>Totonacapan is a space of contact between peoples and trajectories. INPI locates Tepehua communities in municipalities across Hidalgo, Puebla and Veracruz, and recognises Nahua presence in the Sierra Norte de Puebla. Sharing maize, beans or chilli does not make their kitchens interchangeable. Nor does a preparation located in a municipality allow us to assign a single language or identity to all its inhabitants. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s5\">[5]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s8\">[8]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-b1\"><h2>Plants in the landscape and plants in the diet<\/h2><p>Espinoza-P\u00e9rez and colleagues studied 146 plots belonging to 69 families in nine localities across seven municipalities of Puebla\u2019s Totonacapan. Their 2022 work included 63 milpas, 47 coffee plantations, 27 homegardens, seven horticultural plots and two acahuales, or secondary regrowth plots. They compared these with 270 dietary surveys conducted in 2020. This is those authors\u2019 fieldwork, not interviews conducted by the Institute. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s1\">[1]<\/a><\/p><p>Families were selected according to dietary profiles from earlier research. The localities fall within Atlequizayan, Zapotitl\u00e1n de M\u00e9ndez, Olintla, Jonotla, Camocuautla, Amixtl\u00e1n and Huehuetla, Puebla. The sample represents neither every household in Totonacapan nor the regional proportions of cropping systems. Its strength lies in relating plots, knowledge and recorded consumption within a clearly bounded set of cases.<\/p><\/section><section class=\"c-chart\" id=\"r09-en-plots\"><h3>146 plots, five working environments<\/h3><p>Composition of the 2022 inventory \u00b7 69 selected families \u00b7 nine localities.<\/p><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Milpas<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:90.000%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">63<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Coffee plots<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:67.143%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">47<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Homegardens<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:38.571%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">27<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Horticultural plots<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:10.000%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">7<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Acahuales<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:2.857%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">2<\/span><\/div><p class=\"c-datanote\">Unit: number of plots; common scale from 0 to 70. Total: 63 + 47 + 27 + 7 + 2 = 146. These are not hectares or proportions of all Totonacapan. Derived from the methods of Espinoza-P\u00e9rez et al., 2024 [1], CC BY.<\/p><\/section><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Three dates that keep observations distinct\" style=\"--journal-table-min:32rem\"><table><caption>Three dates that keep observations distinct<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Time<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Documented work<\/th><th scope=\"col\">What is compared<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">2020<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented work\">270 dietary surveys over nine months [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"What is compared\">Recorded food consumption at home.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">2022<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented work\">Inventory of 146 plots and interviews with 69 families [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"What is compared\">Plants present and management, not simultaneous observation of the 2020 diet.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">2024<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented work\">Analysis published in Frontiers [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"What is compared\">Comparison of records with temporal and selection limitations.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><section id=\"r09-en-b2\"><h2>Having a plant does not mean eating it all the time<\/h2><p>The 2024 article\u2019s results and Table 3 report 102 edible species; 48 appear both in the inventoried plots and in the dietary surveys. The authors thus show an important difference between availability and recorded consumption. Coffee plots, homegardens and milpas contain overlapping species: their species counts must not be added as if each environment had entirely separate flora. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s1\">[1]<\/a><\/p><p>Nor does the difference prove that the other species have disappeared from cooking. The surveys covered nine months, recorded food eaten at home and preceded the inventory by two years. Fruit eaten in a field or a seasonal species may be missed. The article itself also alternates between totals of 102 and 101; we make that discrepancy visible in Sources and comparison rather than correcting it without evidence.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-b3\"><figure class=\"iict-viz viz-triptych\" id=\"iict-viz-r09-en\" lang=\"en\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-viz-r09-en-title\"><header><div class=\"viz-kicker\"><span>Visual notebooks<\/span><span>R09 \u00b7 01<\/span><\/div><h3 id=\"iict-viz-r09-en-title\">Three settings for the same food<\/h3><p>Preparation takes on different meanings with the people, purpose and occasion.<\/p><\/header><div class=\"viz-art\" style=\"--viz-cols:3\"><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><path d=\"M80 55l60-40 60 40M92 49v49h96V49M125 98V67h30v31M102 56h15v15h-15M164 56h15v15h-15\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">01<\/span><h4>The home<\/h4><p>Eating, caring and learning through everyday relationships.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><path d=\"M71 48h138q-6 45-69 45T71 48zM62 46h156M108 25q-10-10 2-19M140 25q-10-10 2-19M172 25q-10-10 2-19M115 99h50\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">02<\/span><h4>The celebration<\/h4><p>Preparing to share, remember or offer in a specific context.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><ellipse cx=\"128\" cy=\"34\" rx=\"41\" ry=\"15\"\/><path d=\"M87 34v18q41 30 82 0V34M87 50v18q41 30 82 0M110 76v13q41 25 82-2V65M169 50q25 2 23 15-9 18-48 13\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">03<\/span><h4>The market<\/h4><p>Selling and circulating work, ingredients and knowledge.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figcaption>Reading questions from the article; shared ingredients do not make cuisines identical.<span class=\"viz-source\">Original visual synthesis by the Institute \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-en-sources\">Sources and comparison<\/a><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure class=\"iict-plate\" id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-en\" lang=\"en\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-a-en-title\" style=\"--plate-cols:3\"><div class=\"plate-top\"><p class=\"plate-kicker\">Illustrated notebook \u00b7 I<\/p><h3 id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-en-title\">Knowledge also transforms the grain<\/h3><\/div><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"plate-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 750 420\" role=\"img\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-a-en-art-title iict-plate-r09-a-en-art-desc\"><title id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-en-art-title\">Knowledge also transforms the grain<\/title><desc id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-en-art-desc\">1. Maize provides the material to work with. 2. Cooking, resting and grinding require learned decisions. 3. Dough opens different preparations and occasions. 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stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M555 276 Q607 219 663 276\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M540 280 Q603 342 680 280\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><circle cx=\"138\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"138\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">1<\/text><circle cx=\"375\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"375\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">2<\/text><circle cx=\"609\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"609\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">3<\/text><\/svg><ol class=\"plate-legend\"><li>Maize provides the material to work with.<\/li><li>Cooking, resting and grinding require learned decisions.<\/li><li>Dough opens different preparations and occasions.<\/li><\/ol><figcaption class=\"plate-caption\">Illustrated culinary sequence without a recipe or quantities, linked to the discussion of nixtamalisation. \u00b7 Original illustration by the Institute \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-en-sources\">Sources and comparison<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>Maize changes form and occasion<\/h2><p>Erika Mar\u00eda M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez\u2019s research on the Totonac milpa of the Sierra de Papantla describes a polyculture, growing several crops together, that combines maize with beans, squashes, chillies and other plants, with local variations. Her food discussion distinguishes transformations hidden by a simple ingredient list: mature maize treated through nixtamalisation for tortillas and certain doughs, as against tender maize used for bollitos de elote. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>She also records tamales with different wrappers and preparations. Pintos may contain beans, with broad-bean or pea variants; p\u00falaclas combine dough and milpa produce. Differences in texture and use matter as much as names. We do not reproduce these observations as a universal recipe or instructions for identifying wild plants: they are situated descriptions of culinary knowledge.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-method\"><h3>From landscape to food: relationships to investigate<\/h3><ol class=\"r-flow\"><li><strong>Obtain<\/strong>Grow, gather or buy. Milpa, coffee plot, homegarden and market do not offer the same things at the same time.<\/li><li><strong>Transform<\/strong>Nixtamalise, grind, wrap or cook. Technique changes texture, labour and uses.<\/li><li><strong>Share and circulate<\/strong>Home, sale and ceremony: who the food is for and who takes responsibility both matter.<\/li><\/ol><p class=\"c-datanote\">Reading diagram derived from [1\u20134]. It represents neither a single chain, a universal division of labour nor a regional calendar.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-b4\"><section class=\"iict-reading-addition\" data-kind=\"inline\" id=\"iict-reading-r09-en\" lang=\"en\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-reading-r09-en-title\"><h3 id=\"iict-reading-r09-en-title\">Lime is part of culinary knowledge too<\/h3><p>A transformation between dry grain and dough can easily go unnoticed. Nixtamalization uses water and food-grade lime; the alkaline environment changes the grain\u2019s outer layer and helps its processing. Mexico\u2019s Agriculture Ministry explains it in an identified kitchen: that of Angelina Espinoza Fuentes, a producer from San Miguel Topilejo in Mexico City, in a record published in 2025. <a class=\"reading-ref\" href=\"#iict-reading-r09-en-source\" aria-label=\"See sources and comparison\">\u2197<\/a><\/p><p>This example outside the Totonacapan helps explain an operation that the Papantla research situates in its own foods. Recognizing the right stages of cooking, resting and grinding is part of the cook\u2019s judgement. A shared ingredient becomes different foods through learned decisions.<\/p><p class=\"reading-links\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gob.mx\/agricultura\/es\/articulos\/del-maiz-a-la-tortilla-y-el-proceso-de-nixtamalizacion\">Secretar\u00eda de Agricultura \u00b7 Del ma\u00edz a la tortilla, 13\/06\/2025<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-en-sources\">Sources and comparison<\/a><\/p><\/section>\n<h2>Coxquihui: table, ritual and market<\/h2><p>In the pages devoted to Coxquihui, M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez associates p\u00falaclas with petitions for rain, Holy Week and the Day of the Dead. Her documentation includes a photograph dated 28 March 2018 of molenderas preparing them. Date and context explain a particular practice; they do not turn every tamal sale or domestic kitchen into a ritual act. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>The author also describes everyday sales and atole preparations. Molenderas appear as women with specialised knowledge, alongside the responsibilities of mayordomos and fiscales on certain occasions. Transmission here involves more than keeping a formula: it means adjusting doughs, organising labour, recognising timing and meeting obligations. Commercial and ceremonial circulation are related, without being identical.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-b5\"><h2>Two pascales from Mecapalapa, two published voices<\/h2><p>Two bilingual SEP books document preparations with named contributors and schools. In Los animales que a m\u00ed me gustan, Librada S\u00e1nchez Zamora contributes \u201cPollo en pascal\u201d, from Emiliano Zapata school in Mecapalapa, Pantepec, Puebla. The text mentions smoked chicken, sesame, pipi\u00e1n and dried chillies ground on a metate. Its documentary value includes place and contributor, as well as ingredients. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s3\">[3]<\/a><\/p><p>In El conejo que vend\u00eda ma\u00edz, Mar\u00eda Ang\u00e9lica Albino Dom\u00ednguez, from the same school and locality, contributes \u201cPascal de hongo\u201d, with mushrooms, chile de Mora, maize dough and pipi\u00e1n. Both books identify themselves as Tutunak\u00fa-language publications: we do not reclassify them as Tepehua on geographic grounds. The second recipe uses \u201csardina\u201d as a local measure; it is neither a fish ingredient nor a quantity we can convert into grams without calibration. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s4\">[4]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-b6\"><figure class=\"iict-plate\" id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-en\" lang=\"en\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-b-en-title\" style=\"--plate-cols:3\"><div class=\"plate-top\"><p class=\"plate-kicker\">Illustrated notebook \u00b7 II<\/p><h3 id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-en-title\">The table connects several landscapes<\/h3><\/div><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"plate-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 750 420\" role=\"img\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-b-en-art-title iict-plate-r09-b-en-art-desc\"><title id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-en-art-title\">The table connects several landscapes<\/title><desc id=\"iict-plate-r09-b-en-art-desc\">1. Milpa and coffee plots are among the cultivated settings studied. 2. Gardens and other plots broaden the plants available. 3. Availability, preparation and consumption are distinct questions. 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d=\"M-12 0 Q-6 -85 -2 -162 L10 -162 Q7 -75 19 0Z\" fill=\"#c9b394\" stroke=\"#6e6a4a\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M1 -105 L-42 -150 M5 -132 L39 -175\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#6e6a4a\" stroke-width=\"5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-65 -133 C-115 -143 -98 -206 -47 -208 C-34 -261 37 -267 61 -222 C118 -229 133 -155 82 -135 C45 -104 -27 -109 -65 -133Z\" fill=\"#b4bca0\" stroke=\"#7c8b66\" stroke-width=\"1.5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-78 -170 Q-30 -216 8 -188 M8 -217 Q48 -233 77 -195 M-30 -144 Q20 -174 63 -153\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#7c8b66\" stroke-width=\"1.3\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><\/g><path d=\"M90 338 Q372 281 674 338 L655 357 Q378 320 110 357Z\" fill=\"#d8c19a\" stroke=\"#a48c61\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><circle cx=\"169\" cy=\"95\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"169\" y=\"103\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">1<\/text><circle cx=\"467\" cy=\"119\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"467\" y=\"127\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">2<\/text><circle cx=\"378\" cy=\"365\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"378\" y=\"373\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">3<\/text><\/svg><ol class=\"plate-legend\"><li>Milpa and coffee plots are among the cultivated settings studied.<\/li><li>Gardens and other plots broaden the plants available.<\/li><li>Availability, preparation and consumption are distinct questions.<\/li><\/ol><figcaption class=\"plate-caption\">Conceptual relationship inspired by the 146 plots studied; not percentages of diet or regional land. \u00b7 Original illustration by the Institute \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-en-sources\">Sources and comparison<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>Coast and mountains broaden the conversation<\/h2><p>The Tecolutla municipal inventory compiled by INEGI names guatape de camar\u00f3n. Its Cuetzalan inventory mentions, among other foods, bean tamales and mole tamales. These entries locate culinary references beyond Papantla, but identify neither an individual cook nor every variation. A municipal or visitor-oriented entry does not offer the same depth as ethnographic research into practices and relationships or a signed contribution. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s6\">[6]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s7\">[7]<\/a><\/p><p>INPI\u2019s Tepehua ethnography includes maize, chilli, beans, squash, chayote, sesame, fruit, leafy greens and mushrooms in food and domestic production. It concerns another cultural setting; it does not authorise assigning every preparation with these ingredients to it. Nahua localities and regional mestizo kitchens likewise require their own provenance and names to be retained: exchange does not erase differences. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s5\">[5]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-en-s8\">[8]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-preparations\"><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Situated preparations \u00b7 place, source and variants\" style=\"--journal-table-min:40rem\"><table><caption>Situated preparations \u00b7 place, source and variants<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Preparation<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Documented place<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Source and attribution<\/th><th scope=\"col\">What the record supports<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">P\u00falaclas and pintos<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented place\">Coxquihui, Veracruz<\/td><td data-label=\"Source and attribution\">M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez [2], pp. 74\u201378. Ethnographic record, not exclusive recipe authorship.<\/td><td data-label=\"What the record supports\">Milpa produce; pintos include pulse variants. Documented sales and ritual occasions; not every use is ceremonial.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Pollo en pascal<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented place\">Mecapalapa, Pantepec, Puebla<\/td><td data-label=\"Source and attribution\">Librada S\u00e1nchez Zamora \u00b7 Emiliano Zapata school \u00b7 SEP [3], p. 22.<\/td><td data-label=\"What the record supports\">Smoked chicken, sesame, pipi\u00e1n and dried chillies. Tutunak\u00fa-language publication; recipe not transcribed.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Pascal de hongo<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented place\">Mecapalapa, Pantepec, Puebla<\/td><td data-label=\"Source and attribution\">Mar\u00eda Ang\u00e9lica Albino Dom\u00ednguez \u00b7 same school \u00b7 SEP [4], p. 22.<\/td><td data-label=\"What the record supports\">Mushrooms, maize dough, pipi\u00e1n and chile de Mora. \u201cSardina\u201d is a local measure; no equivalent weight is assumed.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Guatape de camar\u00f3n<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented place\">Tecolutla, Veracruz<\/td><td data-label=\"Source and attribution\">INEGI\/INAFED inventory [6], p. 4; individual cook not identified.<\/td><td data-label=\"What the record supports\">Located coastal reference. The entry documents neither variants nor a complete recipe.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Bean and mole tamales<\/th><td data-label=\"Documented place\">Cuetzalan del Progreso, Puebla<\/td><td data-label=\"Source and attribution\">INEGI\/INAFED inventory [7], p. 4; individual authorship not identified.<\/td><td data-label=\"What the record supports\">Municipal mountain reference; not proof of exclusive origin or the identity of everyone who prepares them.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><\/section><section id=\"r09-en-b7\"><h2>Transmission also means writing, selling and deciding<\/h2><p>A school recipe book, a festive kitchen and a plot study preserve different things. The first makes a contribution and vocabulary visible; ethnography explains occasions and responsibilities; the inventory relates cultivated diversity to recorded eating. Read together, they reveal a living culture sustained by decisions, knowledge and work, without requiring every practice to remain identical in order to matter.<\/p><p>Further research needs to listen to people who cook and sell in each place, with permission and recognition of their contributions. It also needs to record variants, changing measures, ingredient access and the division of labour. We do not replace those voices with imagined interviews: we bring together those already published and identify what evidence each supplies. Kitchens can thus be understood rigorously without being reduced to a catalogue of dishes.<\/p><\/section><details class=\"research-evidence\" id=\"r09-en-sources\"><summary><span class=\"evidence-kicker\">Open research<\/span><strong>Sources and comparison<\/strong><span class=\"evidence-subtitle\">Open the methods, differences between sources and verifiable references.<\/span><\/summary><div class=\"evidence-content\"><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Claims, evidence and the reach of each finding.\" style=\"--journal-table-min:32rem\"><table><caption>Claims, evidence and the reach of each finding.<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Question<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Sources and observations<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Comparison and interpretation<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">Whom does the plot study represent?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">Frontiers [1], methods and Table 1: 69 families selected by dietary profile, nine localities and seven municipalities; 146 plots in 2022.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">This is a study of related cases, not a probability survey of all Totonacapan. Plot percentages describe the sample, not regional land area or every people\u2019s diet.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Why 102 species rather than 101?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">The abstract, results and Table 3 in [1] report 102. Discussion and conclusion also use 101; the management breakdown contains another one-species discrepancy.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">We follow the explicit results\/Table 3 total while retaining the discrepancy. Without corrected data or author clarification we do not choose a species to remove or reconstruct the inventory.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Does absence from the survey mean people stopped eating it?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">The 2022 inventory matches 48 species in the 2020 surveys. The authors [1] note nine months of recording, food eaten at home and possible fruit consumption in fields.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">The gap between availability and recorded consumption does not prove cultural disappearance. Time, place of eating and seasonality may contribute; comparable follow-up is needed to explain change.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Does greater richness mean diversity can be added up?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">[1], Table 3: coffee plots 71, homegardens 66, milpas 57, horticulture 13 and acahuales 8; several species occur in more than one environment.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">These richness counts overlap. They cannot be summed into a regional total or automatically translated into nutritional quality, consumption frequency or clinical benefits.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Does one preparation have only one context?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez [2], pp. 74\u201378, relates p\u00falaclas and atoles to ritual occasions, specialised knowledge and everyday sales in Coxquihui.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">Occasion changes relationships and responsibilities without requiring a different ingredient for every use. The 2018 documentation is neither our interview nor a current calendar for every community.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Are two pascales incompatible recipes?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">SEP [3\u20134], p. 22 of each book: smoked chicken versus mushrooms, with different contributors from Mecapalapa. Both publications identify Tutunak\u00fa as their language.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">They are documented variants, not a dispute over one recipe. Contributors and school remain credited. The measure \u201csardina\u201d is not turned into fish or assumed grams.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Can locality establish identity?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">INPI [5,8] shows multicultural territories. SEP books [3\u20134] specify their publication language; INEGI [6\u20137] records foods by municipality.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">Geography, publication language and personal identity are not equivalent. We attribute neither all pascales to Tepehua people, all tamales to one people, nor all regional cooking to Papantla.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">Do all sources explain the same thing?<\/th><td data-label=\"Sources and observations\">Plot research [1], ethnography [2], school contributions [3\u20134] and municipal inventories [6\u20137] observe different units and dates.<\/td><td data-label=\"Comparison and interpretation\">They complement one another, but a food inventory is not a cook\u2019s testimony. Expanding knowledge of recipes, work and trade needs authorised interviews and local observation, not invented voices.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><h3>References and reading scope<\/h3><ol class=\"research-sources\"><li id=\"r09-en-s1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.frontiersin.org\/journals\/sustainable-food-systems\/articles\/10.3389\/fsufs.2024.1329532\/full\">Espinoza-P\u00e9rez, Cortina-Villar, Perales, M\u00e9ndez-Flores y Soto-Pinto \u00b7 Edible plants as a complement to the diet of peasant farmers \u00b7 2024 \u00b7 DOI 10.3389\/fsufs.2024.1329532<\/a><br>Complete original article and all five tables. Methods: 2020 dietary surveys and 2022 inventory; 69 families, nine localities, seven municipalities, 146 plots. Results, discussion and limitations read. Derived data attributed, CC BY.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/librosdigitales.colsan.edu.mx\/ebook\/Sembrandomilpas_2025.pdf\">Erika Mar\u00eda M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez \u00b7 Milpa totonaca: sabores, saberes y rituales agr\u00edcolas en la Sierra de Papantla, Veracruz \u00b7 en Sembrando milpas, coord. Enriqueta Quiroz \u00b7 2025<\/a><br>Printed pages 53\u201356 and 74\u201378\u2014PDF 55\u201358 and 76\u201380\u2014and the chapter introduction. Milpa, techniques and practices in Coxquihui; documented 2018 photograph. Neither complete-book reading nor reproduction of that photograph is claimed.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s3\"><a href=\"https:\/\/dgeiib.basica.sep.gob.mx\/files\/fondo-editorial\/biblioteca-escolar\/semilla-palabras\/be_semillas_00109.pdf\">SEP \u00b7 Los animales que a m\u00ed me gustan \u00b7 Lengua tutunak\u00fa, Puebla \u00b7 2010, reimpresi\u00f3n 2013<\/a><br>Cover, imprint and printed page 22\u2014PDF 23. \u201cPollo en pascal\u201d, contribution by Librada S\u00e1nchez Zamora; Emiliano Zapata school, Mecapalapa, Pantepec. Details paraphrased without copying the complete recipe.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s4\"><a href=\"https:\/\/dgeiib.basica.sep.gob.mx\/files\/fondo-editorial\/biblioteca-escolar\/semilla-palabras\/be_semillas_00034.pdf\">SEP \u00b7 El conejo que vend\u00eda ma\u00edz \u00b7 Lengua tutunak\u00fa, Puebla \u00b7 2010, reimpresi\u00f3n 2013<\/a><br>Cover, imprint and printed page 22\u2014PDF 23. \u201cPascal de hongo\u201d, contribution by Mar\u00eda Ang\u00e9lica Albino Dom\u00ednguez; same school and locality. The meaning of the local measure \u201csardina\u201d is retained.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s5\"><a href=\"https:\/\/atlas.inpi.gob.mx\/tepehuas-etnografia\/\">INPI \u00b7 Atlas de los pueblos ind\u00edgenas de M\u00e9xico \u00b7 Tepehuas: etnograf\u00eda<\/a><br>Location, productive activities and food sections consulted in the indexed primary text. Direct access intermittent. It does not establish authorship of the two pascales in the SEP books.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s6\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.inegi.org.mx\/contenidos\/app\/mexicocifras\/datos_geograficos\/30\/30158.pdf\">INEGI \u00b7 Tecolutla \u00b7 Compendio geogr\u00e1fico municipal 2010<\/a><br>PDF page 4, heritage\/food: guatape de camar\u00f3n. Municipal inventory referring to INAFED; neither a complete recipe nor individual culinary authorship.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s7\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.inegi.org.mx\/contenidos\/app\/mexicocifras\/datos_geograficos\/21\/21043.pdf\">INEGI \u00b7 Cuetzalan del Progreso \u00b7 Compendio geogr\u00e1fico municipal 2010<\/a><br>PDF page 4: food inventory including bean and mole tamales. Municipal reference, neither exclusive ethnic attribution nor a description of all variants.<\/li><li id=\"r09-en-s8\"><a href=\"https:\/\/atlas.inpi.gob.mx\/nahuas-de-puebla-etnografia\/\">INPI \u00b7 Atlas de los pueblos ind\u00edgenas de M\u00e9xico \u00b7 Nahuas de Puebla: etnograf\u00eda<\/a><br>Indexed primary text consulted for location and the multicultural context of the Sierra Norte. Not used to attribute a particular recipe to all Nahua people.<\/li><\/ol><\/div><section class=\"iict-reading-source\" id=\"iict-reading-r09-en-source\" lang=\"en\"><h4>Lime is part of culinary knowledge too<\/h4><p>Topilejo provides a technical explanation and an identified voice. It does not replace Papantla observations or establish one regional recipe.<\/p><p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.gob.mx\/agricultura\/es\/articulos\/del-maiz-a-la-tortilla-y-el-proceso-de-nixtamalizacion\">Secretar\u00eda de Agricultura \u00b7 Del ma\u00edz a la tortilla, 13\/06\/2025<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"#iict-reading-r09-en\">Return to the passage<\/a><\/p><\/section>\n<\/details><nav class=\"research-related\"><a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1225#research-hub-en\">Return to Totonacapan Research \u2192<\/a><\/nav><p class=\"research-version\">Documentary edition \u00b7 ES \/ EN \/ FR \u00b7 05.11.2026 \u00b7 v1.0<\/p><!-- IICT-CITE R09 en --><aside class=\"iict-citation\" id=\"citar-r09-en\" aria-labelledby=\"citar-r09-en-title\"><h2 id=\"citar-r09-en-title\">How to cite this article<\/h2><p class=\"iict-citation-label\">Suggested bibliographic reference<\/p><blockquote class=\"iict-citation-reference\">Instituto Internacional de Cultura del Totonacapan. \u00abKitchens of Totonacapan: territories, ingredients and knowledge\u00bb. <cite>Research notebooks<\/cite>, <strong>R09<\/strong>. The Integral Management Society (IMSV). <a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1304#r09-en\">https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1304#r09-en<\/a>.<\/blockquote><p><strong>Internal reference:<\/strong> <a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1304#r09-en\">R09<\/a>. For a specific passage, add its section title.<\/p><p><a href=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/?page_id=1225#normas-citacion-en\">The Institute\u2019s citation guidance \u2192<\/a><\/p><\/aside><!-- \/IICT-CITE R09 en --><\/article><\/details><details class=\"research-lang-version\" id=\"r09-fr-version\"><summary>Lire l\u2019article int\u00e9gral en fran\u00e7ais<\/summary><article id=\"r09-fr\" lang=\"fr\"><p class=\"eyebrow\">Recherches sur le Totonacapan \u00b7 Paysages et savoirs<\/p><h1>Cuisines du Totonacapan : territoires, ingr\u00e9dients et savoirs<\/h1><p class=\"research-deck\">Des parcelles \u00e0 la table et au march\u00e9 : ce que nous apprennent les enqu\u00eates de terrain, les cuisines rituelles et deux recueils scolaires bilingues.<\/p><div class=\"research-abstract\"><h2>L\u2019essentiel<\/h2><p>Les cuisines du Totonacapan ne tiennent pas dans une recette unique. Elles changent selon le lieu, le foyer, la saison et l\u2019occasion. Milpa, caf\u00e9i\u00e8re, jardin familial, rivi\u00e8re, c\u00f4te et march\u00e9 contribuent diff\u00e9remment \u00e0 ce qui arrive sur la table.<\/p><p>Ce parcours r\u00e9unit une \u00e9tude de 146 parcelles, une recherche sur la milpa de la Sierra de Papantla et des pr\u00e9parations dont les lieux et les contributions sont document\u00e9s. Il distingue les cuisines tutunak\u00fa, nahuas, tepehuas et r\u00e9gionales m\u00e9tisses sans transformer les ingr\u00e9dients partag\u00e9s en identit\u00e9 unique.<\/p><\/div><figure class=\"research-visual\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"960\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/iict-r09-dulces-cuetzalan-stephanielopezs-2013.jpg\" alt=\"\u00c9tal ambulant de confiseries \u00e0 Cuetzalan, avec des produits sur des plateaux.\" loading=\"eager\"><figcaption><strong>L\u2019alimentation circule aussi dans la rue<\/strong>Confiseries \u00e0 Cuetzalan, Puebla \u00b7 14 novembre 2013. Sc\u00e8ne de vente situ\u00e9e ; la photographie seule n\u2019identifie ni recettes, ni ingr\u00e9dients, ni appartenance culturelle.<br>StephanieLopezS \u00b7 <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Dulces_T%C3%ADpicos_del_pueblo_de_Cuetzalan,Puebla.jpg\">Wikimedia Commons<\/a> \u00b7 <a href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/4.0\/\">CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure><section id=\"r09-fr-b0\"><h2>On conna\u00eet aussi le territoire en mangeant<\/h2><p>Une tortilla quotidienne, un tamal d\u2019offrande et un rago\u00fbt vendu au march\u00e9 racontent des relations diff\u00e9rentes. Les comprendre exige plus qu\u2019une liste de plats : qui cultive ou obtient les ingr\u00e9dients, qui les transforme, pour qui et \u00e0 quelle occasion cuisine-t-on ? Le m\u00eame aliment peut circuler entre maison, f\u00eate et vente tout en conservant son histoire locale. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-fr-s2\">[2]<\/a><\/p><p>Le Totonacapan est un espace de contact entre peuples et trajectoires. L\u2019INPI situe des communaut\u00e9s tepehuas dans plusieurs municipalit\u00e9s d\u2019Hidalgo, de Puebla et du Veracruz et reconna\u00eet la pr\u00e9sence nahua dans la Sierra Norte de Puebla. Partager ma\u00efs, haricots ou piment ne rend pas leurs cuisines interchangeables. Une pr\u00e9paration localis\u00e9e dans une municipalit\u00e9 ne permet pas non plus d\u2019attribuer une seule langue ou identit\u00e9 \u00e0 tous ses habitants. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-fr-s5\">[5]<\/a><a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-fr-s8\">[8]<\/a><\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-fr-b1\"><h2>Les plantes du paysage et celles de l\u2019alimentation<\/h2><p>Espinoza-P\u00e9rez et ses coll\u00e8gues ont \u00e9tudi\u00e9 146 parcelles de 69 familles dans neuf localit\u00e9s de sept municipalit\u00e9s du Totonacapan de Puebla. Le travail de 2022 portait sur 63 milpas, 47 caf\u00e9i\u00e8res, 27 jardins familiaux, sept parcelles horticoles et deux acahuales, parcelles de recr\u00fb secondaire. Ils les ont confront\u00e9es \u00e0 270 enqu\u00eates alimentaires de 2020. Il s\u2019agit du terrain de ces auteurs, non d\u2019entretiens r\u00e9alis\u00e9s par l\u2019Institut. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-fr-s1\">[1]<\/a><\/p><p>Les familles ont \u00e9t\u00e9 s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9es selon des profils alimentaires issus d\u2019une recherche ant\u00e9rieure. Les localit\u00e9s rel\u00e8vent d\u2019Atlequizayan, Zapotitl\u00e1n de M\u00e9ndez, Olintla, Jonotla, Camocuautla, Amixtl\u00e1n et Huehuetla, Puebla. Ce n\u2019est ni un \u00e9chantillon de tous les foyers du Totonacapan ni une proportion r\u00e9gionale des syst\u00e8mes de culture. Sa force est de relier parcelles, savoirs et consommation enregistr\u00e9e dans un ensemble de cas bien d\u00e9limit\u00e9.<\/p><\/section><section class=\"c-chart\" id=\"r09-fr-plots\"><h3>146 parcelles, cinq milieux de travail<\/h3><p>Composition de l\u2019inventaire de 2022 \u00b7 69 familles s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9es \u00b7 neuf localit\u00e9s.<\/p><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Milpas<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:90.000%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">63<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Caf\u00e9i\u00e8res<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:67.143%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">47<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Jardins familiaux<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:38.571%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">27<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Parcelles horticoles<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:10.000%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">7<\/span><\/div><div class=\"c-plotrow\"><strong>Acahuales<\/strong><span class=\"c-track\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><span class=\"c-fill\" style=\"width:2.857%\"><\/span><\/span><span class=\"c-num\">2<\/span><\/div><p class=\"c-datanote\">Unit\u00e9 : nombre de parcelles ; \u00e9chelle commune de 0 \u00e0 70. Total : 63 + 47 + 27 + 7 + 2 = 146. Ni hectares ni proportions de tout le Totonacapan. \u00c9laboration d\u2019apr\u00e8s les m\u00e9thodes d\u2019Espinoza-P\u00e9rez et al., 2024 [1], CC BY.<\/p><\/section><figure class=\"research-matrix\"><div class=\"iict-journal-table\" role=\"region\" tabindex=\"0\" aria-label=\"Trois dates pour distinguer les observations\" style=\"--journal-table-min:32rem\"><table><caption>Trois dates pour distinguer les observations<\/caption><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\">Moment<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Travail document\u00e9<\/th><th scope=\"col\">Ce qui est compar\u00e9<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><th scope=\"row\">2020<\/th><td data-label=\"Travail document\u00e9\">270 enqu\u00eates alimentaires sur neuf mois [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"Ce qui est compar\u00e9\">Consommation enregistr\u00e9e \u00e0 domicile.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">2022<\/th><td data-label=\"Travail document\u00e9\">Inventaire de 146 parcelles et entretiens avec 69 familles [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"Ce qui est compar\u00e9\">Plantes pr\u00e9sentes et gestion, non observation simultan\u00e9e de l\u2019alimentation de 2020.<\/td><\/tr><tr><th scope=\"row\">2024<\/th><td data-label=\"Travail document\u00e9\">Publication de l\u2019analyse dans Frontiers [1].<\/td><td data-label=\"Ce qui est compar\u00e9\">Croisement des relev\u00e9s avec leurs limites temporelles et de s\u00e9lection.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/div><\/figure><section id=\"r09-fr-b2\"><h2>Disposer d\u2019une plante ne signifie pas la manger toujours<\/h2><p>Les r\u00e9sultats et le tableau 3 de l\u2019article de 2024 indiquent 102 esp\u00e8ces comestibles ; 48 figurent \u00e0 la fois dans les parcelles inventori\u00e9es et dans les enqu\u00eates alimentaires. Les auteurs montrent ainsi une diff\u00e9rence importante entre disponibilit\u00e9 et consommation enregistr\u00e9e. Caf\u00e9i\u00e8res, jardins et milpas abritent des esp\u00e8ces communes : il ne faut pas additionner leurs nombres d\u2019esp\u00e8ces comme si chaque milieu avait une flore enti\u00e8rement distincte. <a class=\"research-cite\" href=\"#r09-fr-s1\">[1]<\/a><\/p><p>La diff\u00e9rence ne d\u00e9montre pas davantage que les autres esp\u00e8ces auraient disparu de la cuisine. Les enqu\u00eates couvrent neuf mois, enregistrent les aliments consomm\u00e9s \u00e0 domicile et pr\u00e9c\u00e8dent de deux ans l\u2019inventaire. Un fruit mang\u00e9 au champ ou une esp\u00e8ce saisonni\u00e8re peut \u00e9chapper au relev\u00e9. L\u2019article alterne aussi entre 102 et 101 comme total ; nous rendons cet \u00e9cart visible dans Sources et confrontation au lieu de le corriger sans preuve.<\/p><\/section><section id=\"r09-fr-b3\"><figure class=\"iict-viz viz-triptych\" id=\"iict-viz-r09-fr\" lang=\"fr\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-viz-r09-fr-title\"><header><div class=\"viz-kicker\"><span>Carnets visuels<\/span><span>R09 \u00b7 01<\/span><\/div><h3 id=\"iict-viz-r09-fr-title\">Trois contextes pour un m\u00eame aliment<\/h3><p>La pr\u00e9paration prend un sens diff\u00e9rent selon les personnes, la destination et l\u2019occasion.<\/p><\/header><div class=\"viz-art\" style=\"--viz-cols:3\"><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><path d=\"M80 55l60-40 60 40M92 49v49h96V49M125 98V67h30v31M102 56h15v15h-15M164 56h15v15h-15\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">01<\/span><h4>La maison<\/h4><p>Manger, prendre soin et apprendre dans les relations quotidiennes.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><path d=\"M71 48h138q-6 45-69 45T71 48zM62 46h156M108 25q-10-10 2-19M140 25q-10-10 2-19M172 25q-10-10 2-19M115 99h50\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">02<\/span><h4>La c\u00e9l\u00e9bration<\/h4><p>Pr\u00e9parer pour partager, se souvenir ou offrir dans un contexte pr\u00e9cis.<\/p><\/div><div class=\"viz-cell\"><svg class=\"viz-line-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 280 110\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\"><path d=\"M30 105h220\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#c9b77f\" stroke-width=\"1\"\/><g fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.55\"><ellipse cx=\"128\" cy=\"34\" rx=\"41\" ry=\"15\"\/><path d=\"M87 34v18q41 30 82 0V34M87 50v18q41 30 82 0M110 76v13q41 25 82-2V65M169 50q25 2 23 15-9 18-48 13\"\/><\/g><\/svg><span class=\"viz-number\" aria-hidden=\"true\">03<\/span><h4>Le march\u00e9<\/h4><p>Vendre et faire circuler travail, ingr\u00e9dients et connaissances.<\/p><\/div><\/div><figcaption>Pistes de lecture de l\u2019article ; des ingr\u00e9dients communs ne rendent pas les cuisines identiques.<span class=\"viz-source\">Synth\u00e8se visuelle originale de l\u2019Institut \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-fr-sources\">Sources et confrontation<\/a><\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure class=\"iict-plate\" id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr\" lang=\"fr\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr-title\" style=\"--plate-cols:3\"><div class=\"plate-top\"><p class=\"plate-kicker\">Carnet illustr\u00e9 \u00b7 I<\/p><h3 id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr-title\">Le savoir transforme aussi le grain<\/h3><\/div><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"plate-art\" viewBox=\"0 0 750 420\" role=\"img\" aria-labelledby=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr-art-title iict-plate-r09-a-fr-art-desc\"><title id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr-art-title\">Le savoir transforme aussi le grain<\/title><desc id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr-art-desc\">1. Le ma\u00efs apporte la mati\u00e8re \u00e0 travailler. 2. Cuisson, repos et mouture demandent des d\u00e9cisions apprises. 3. La p\u00e2te ouvre des pr\u00e9parations et des occasions diverses. S\u00e9quence culinaire illustr\u00e9e sans recette ni dosage, li\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019explication de la nixtamalisation.<\/desc><defs><pattern id=\"iict-plate-r09-a-fr-grain\" patternUnits=\"userSpaceOnUse\" width=\"17\" height=\"19\"><circle cx=\"2\" cy=\"3\" r=\".6\" fill=\"#a9a384\" opacity=\".15\"\/><circle cx=\"11\" cy=\"14\" r=\".5\" fill=\"#b3a98a\" opacity=\".16\"\/><\/pattern><\/defs><rect width=\"750\" height=\"420\" fill=\"url(#iict-plate-r09-a-fr-grain)\"\/><g transform=\"translate(137 302) scale(1.01)\"><path d=\"M0 0 C-46 -44 -45 -160 0 -203 C47 -153 44 -43 0 0Z\" fill=\"#dec678\" stroke=\"#ae8e4b\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-19 -28 q8 -10 15 -2 q-3 11 -14 8Z\" fill=\"#dfc77e\" stroke=\"#b39a56\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M-2 -28 q8 -10 15 -2 q-3 11 -14 8Z\" fill=\"#dfc77e\" stroke=\"#b39a56\" stroke-width=\"0.8\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" 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283 Q612 319 551 283Z\" fill=\"#d1bc8f\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M555 276 Q607 219 663 276\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><path d=\"M540 280 Q603 342 680 280\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"#a68a56\" stroke-width=\"2\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\" \/><circle cx=\"138\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"138\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">1<\/text><circle cx=\"375\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"375\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">2<\/text><circle cx=\"609\" cy=\"353\" r=\"20\" fill=\"#264e60\" stroke=\"#f8f4e9\" stroke-width=\"3\"\/><text x=\"609\" y=\"361\" fill=\"#fff\" font-family=\"Georgia,serif\" font-size=\"24\" text-anchor=\"middle\">3<\/text><\/svg><ol class=\"plate-legend\"><li>Le ma\u00efs apporte la mati\u00e8re \u00e0 travailler.<\/li><li>Cuisson, repos et mouture demandent des d\u00e9cisions apprises.<\/li><li>La p\u00e2te ouvre des pr\u00e9parations et des occasions diverses.<\/li><\/ol><figcaption class=\"plate-caption\">S\u00e9quence culinaire illustr\u00e9e sans recette ni dosage, li\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019explication de la nixtamalisation. \u00b7 Illustration originale de l\u2019Institut \u00b7 <a href=\"#r09-fr-sources\">Sources et confrontation<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>Le ma\u00efs change de forme et d\u2019occasion<\/h2><p>La recherche d\u2019Erika Mar\u00eda M\u00e9ndez Mart\u00ednez sur la milpa totonaque de la Sierra de Papantla d\u00e9crit une polyculture, o\u00f9 plusieurs plantes poussent ensemble, associant ma\u00efs, haricots, courges, piments et autres plantes, avec des variations locales. Ses pages sur l\u2019alimentation distinguent des transformations qu\u2019une liste d\u2019ingr\u00e9dients masquer[Truncated]","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Espa\u00f1olEnglish \u00b7 full articleFran\u00e7ais \u00b7 article int\u00e9gral Investigaciones del Totonacapan \u00b7 Paisaje y saberes Cocinas del Totonacapan: territorios, ingredientes y saberes De la parcela a la mesa y al mercado cambia mucho m\u00e1s que un alimento. Los estudios de campo, las cocinas rituales y dos recetarios escolares biling\u00fces permiten seguir esas transformaciones. En pocas palabras [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":1225,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-1304","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1304","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1304"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1304\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1911,"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1304\/revisions\/1911"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1225"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/totonacapan.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1304"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}